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Bike Rides in Portland Five great rides in and around Portland which vary in difficulty and offer something for everyone in the family. Portland has been voted one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in United States by Bicycling Magazine since 1995. There are many great rides in and around Portland. Here are five in different sections of the city with varying degrees of difficulty.
These directions are meant to get you started, but we suggest you obtain more detailed maps. Mileage is approximate.
Sauvie Island (easy), 12 miles
A ride around Sauvie Island is a passage of Spring. This flat 12-mile ride through farmer's fields and wildlife preserves is a great place to warm up your riding muscles after a wet winter or to bring friends with mixed riding abilities. This ride is a loop, but there are several places you can add on with out-and-back side trips.

To begin the ride, drive out Highway 30 North to the Sauvie Island Bridge. Turn right to cross the bridge and loop around to the left and park in the gravel parking lot.
Ride left out of the parking lot and under the bridge on Gillihan Road. You'll curve around and past pumpkin and corn fields. At approximately 6 miles, you'll come to a stop sign at Reeder Road, go left. (You can turn right here and head out toward the Sauvie Island beaches and add 9 miles each way out and back.)
You'll pass Oak Island Road on the right in 3 miles. (Take this out for a nice 6-mile out-and-back addition to the ride through groves of old oak trees and past potato fields.)

Stay on Reeder Road until you come to a stop sign on Sauvie Island Road.(approximately 10 miles) Turn left and ride along the Multnomah Channel for 2 more miles until you reach the parking area.
Blue Lake (moderate), 20 miles
There's nothing like a ride along a breezy river on a hot summer day. And what better reward than a cool dip in a lake at your halfway point?
Most of this ride to Blue Lake State Park is on a flat off-road bike path. It's a straight shot out and back, so there's little danger of getting lost. The beginning few miles can get congested with runners, dog walkers and roller bladers, but it quickly clears out.
If you don't want the hassle, you can ride on the wide shoulder of Marine Drive the whole way but then you must contend with cars and semis zipping by at 55 mph.

To begin the Blue Lake ride, drive or bike north on NE 33rd Avenue until it ends at Marine Drive. Just before Marine Drive, a gravel driveway appears on the left. You can park here along the side of the road.

To begin the ride, go under the overpass onto the bike trail. Look for heron and hawks and listen for red wing black birds in the fields to the right.
At approximately 1 mile the path crosses Marine Drive. This is likely to be the most congested part of the path. At approximately 2 miles, you'll pass Sea Scout Base. Stay left to stay on the bike trail.
You'll see the airport on your right. You can stop and watch planes take off and land.
The bike path will take you under Highway 205 at about 5 miles. Just past the bridge, you'll cross Marine Drive at a crosswalk to ride on the right shoulder of the road for .7 miles. At 122nd Avenue, you'll pick up the bike path again on the right.
This part of the path takes you down along the backside of buildings. At 138th Avenue, you'll again cross Marine Drive to land back on the bike path. This is one of the prettiest sections of the route because you are riding closer to the river and don't have a view of the traffic on Marine Drive. At approximately 8 miles, you'll be spit back onto the shoulder of Marine Drive.
Ride past Interlachen Lane, and just after you enter Fairview, you'll turn right onto Blue Lake Road. At just about the 10-mile mark, you'll turn right into Blue Lake Regional Park. Admission is free to bicycle riders. Ride into the park for a quick dip in the lake.
To return to the start of the ride, follow your route in reverse.
The Eastbank Esplanade leads you to the Willamette River where you can ride along the waterfront.
Springwater Corridor/Eastbank Esplanade (easy)
Length varies up to 33 miles
The Springwater Corridor (see a map) and the Eastbank Esplanade (see a map) combine for 18 miles of mostly off-road paved multi-use trail. These trails can get crowded on sunny weekends with baby strollers and dog walkers, but the Springwater Corridor especially is a good place to bring the young riders and teach them bike safety skills.
The Springwater Corridor takes you past Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge, along Johnson Creek where you'll see ducks and other water birds, and through urban farms and community green spaces. In a few spots you'll have to cross city streets, but all have crosswalks.
You can enter the Eastbank Esplanade from several places. If you're on public transportation, take your bikes on the Max or bus to the Rose Quarter. Walk Southwest from the Max platform, until you see the entrance to the Esplanade on your right (just past Wheeler Street). Ride south along the waterfront.
If you're driving, park under the Hawthorne Bridge via SE Main or Madison Street to the large fee parking area. Ride south on the Esplanade (1.5 miles from the Rose Quarter) past OMSI, where it turns into the Springwater Corridor.
The Springwater Corridor runs for 16 miles all the way out to the rural community of Boring. Other popular places to enter the Springwater Corridor are: - Berkeley Place near SE 32nd & Tacoma - Johnson Creek Blvd near SE 45th & Harney - 92nd Avenue north of Flavel St. - 122nd Avenue north of Foster Road - 136th Avenue north of Foster Road
Ride out and back as far as you feel comfortable.
Mount Tabor & Rocky Butte (moderate),18 miles
This ride takes you through some of Portland's Eastside neighborhoods and into two city parks built on extinct volcanoes. The hills offer a great aerobic workout. Much of this ride, while on city streets, are on designated bike routes. That means the streets are either low traffic or have designated bike lanes.
For most of the way up to Mount Tabor and to Rocky Butte, you'll be following the bike route and the turns will be marked with green "bike route" signs.
Start the Mount Tabor & Rocky Butte Ride on SE 20th and Belmont at Colonel Summers Park. Ride south on 20th to SE Salmon, and turn left on SE Salmon. At SE 35th (1 mile) turn left and make a quick right onto SE Taylor Street. Cross SE 39th and turn right on 41st and left again on Salmon, left on 46th and right to stay on Salmon.
Salmon ends at 49th. Turn left and make a quick right on Belmont. You will no longer be following bike route signs.

Belmont heads uphill for 1 mile. At the 3-mile mark, turn right onto SE 69th and into Mt. Tabor Park. Mt. Tabor is closed to cars on Wednesdays, so you're likely to see lots of other bikers on those days.
Stay to the right at the park entrance and ride past a parking lot and restrooms. Veer to the left (uphill) and past the car barricade. This will take you up to the top of the park for panoramic views of Portland. Circle around and ride back down the hill staying to the left at all intersections. This will put you out of the park at SE Harrison Street.
Turn left from Harrison onto SE 76th. Ride over the speed bumps, cross SE Washington and turn left onto SE Stark and make a quick right onto SE 74th. Stay on SE 74th, again following bike route signs. Cross Burnside and Glisan. At approximately 5 miles you'll jog left at Halsey (follow bike signs). Turn left at Tillamook Street and make a quick right onto SE 72nd Drive, up the hill and past the Rose City Golf Course.
At the top of the short hill, turn right onto Sacramento and left onto NE 72nd.
You'll come to an intersection where 72nd, Fremont and Sandy all come together. Take a hard right onto NE Fremont. At approximately 9.5 miles, Fremont curves to the left and becomes NE 91st Avenue and then Rocky Butte Road. Ride this steep uphill to the top of Rocky Butte. You can walk your bike up to the top lookout point here. Circle around the loop to the left and exit at the first right.
Steep Rocky Butte Drive will bring you down to 92nd Avenue. Go left on 92nd for a few blocks and then turn right onto Tillamook at the bike route sign.
Follow the bike route signs and turn left on NE 62nd at approximately 12 miles. Make a right onto Hancock and follow that until NE 44th where you'll turn right and then take a left onto Tillamook.
Tillamook becomes U.S. Grant Place as you pass Grant High School on your right. Cross NE 33rd at 15.5 miles. Turn left onto 32nd and then pick up the bike route again by turning right onto Tillamook.

Turn left onto NE 21st and follow this as it curves around and becomes 20th. Ride 20th back to Colonel Summers Park to the end of this ride.
West Side Hills (difficult),16 or 40 miles
This ride is not for the novice or out-of-shape cyclist. It's difficult with steep, long hills. The rewards are sweeping views of western valleys, Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams.
Start this ride in NW Portland on the corner of NW Raleigh Street & 25th Avenue in Portland at the Chapman School/Wallace Park. Ride South on NW 25th to NW Lovejoy. Turn right onto Lovejoy and immediately begin your uphill ride. Stay to the right as the road curves and becomes Cornell Road. Two bike paths will take you around the narrow tunnels on Cornell Road.
Turn right onto Thompson Road at approximately 2.6 miles. You'll continue uphill to a stop sign at Skyline Boulevard. Turn right. You'll stay on Skyline for 16 miles. Ride past the new homes in Forest Heights and pull into Skyline Memorial Gardens Cemetery for a rest and drink of water.
Continue past Skyline Tavern to a stop sign at Germantown Road (8 miles). If you've had enough, turn right here for the 16-mile ride. Descend Germantown for 2 miles. At the bottom of the hill turn right onto Bridge Road. Pass the St. Johns Bridge and turn right onto Highway 30. Turn right at Kittridge (13 miles). *Follow directions from Kittridge below.
If you've still got stamina, continue on Skyline and cross busy Cornelius Pass Road (12.5 miles) and turn right to stay on Skyline.
Prepare for some more big uphills and views on the right of Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. At 20.6 miles, turn right onto Rocky Point Road. This is a very steep downhill with blind curves and no shoulder. Use caution.
At the bottom of the hill, you'll turn right onto Highway 30 (23.7 miles). Stay on Highway 30 for 13 miles until you come to a traffic signal at Kittridge. *At the light for Kittridge, turn right to stay on St. Helens Road.
Turn right at 29th Avenue. The road curves and become Upshur Street. Turn right onto 28th Avenue. Turn left on Raleigh. Return to Wallace Park/Chapman School at 25th & NW Raleigh. ------------------------------ By KATHY BELGE, for Oregon.com, (http://web.oregon.com/trips/cycle_portland.cfm

Mountain Biking Oregon Oregon has miles of amazing mountain biking, enough to keep urbanites distracted during the work week, dreaming of pine needle-strewn paths along crystal clear rivers winding past lava formations with views of cascade peaks.  Organized mountain bikers continue to improve the offerings by developing more trails.  We've got it good.  Check these areas out.
Bend, Oregon  Amazing trails that you can ride to from town or get dropped off at and ride all day back to town.  Fast, challenging and playful.
Oakridge, Oregon  A fast-growing mountain biking center with varied terrain offering something to all skill levels.  Some are best shuttled, some you have to earn it.  Enjoy!
Clear Lake and Deschutes river off Hwy 126.  This is the area that provides winding single track along a river with lava and waterfalls.  Beautiful! 
Hood River, OR  Post Canyon is playful and crazy.  Large, wood jumps are there but you'll only want to hit those if you have good insurance and are extremely skilled and confident.  This is still a fun place to ride if you just like to ride.  Play areas with bike teeter-totters, slat bridges and more.
Mt. Hood (Hwy 35)  Great riding off of Dufur road between Mt. Hood Meadows and Parkdale.  Surveyor's Ridge is one you'll want to try.  Sandy Ridge is a new trail that riders recently constructed and is off Hwy 26 near Welches.
Scappoose, OR  Check the Rocky Butte trails.  Short circuit single-track.  Lots of fun.
Portland, OR  Forest Park has some fun trails that are legal. Stay on those.  Don't be a punk.

Mountain Biking Locations outside Oregon Moab, Utah is the one everyone knows about.  These ones are from Outside magazine's article about "Under-the-Radar" mountain biking locations.  They didn't mention some great ones in Oregon & Washington, but we'll let you know about those...

Fruita, Colorado
Hundreds of miles of slickrock trails? Check. The Colorado River nearby? Absolutely. Paint the rocks just a little redder and squint a little when you’re in Fruita, and you’d think you’re in you-know-where. The town interrupts the Book Cliffs Range on Colorado’s Western Slope, outside of Grand Junction. Singletrack trails like Chutes and Ladders, and Zippity Doo Da within the 18 Road Trails system are American classics. You can also catch the 142-mile Kokopelli Trail, which terminates at That Utah Mountain Biking Town that Shall Remain Nameless.
Bike shop: Over the Edge Sports

Sedona, Arizona
The brilliant red sandstone buttes of the Sonoran Desert, New Age vortexes, coffee houses, and about 200 miles of miles of singletrack and jeep roads—Sedona’s got practically everything a self-respecting mountain biker could want. The roller-coastering Bell Rock Loops are where most out-of-towners get their bike legs, before fanning out into the more remote stretches of dry wilderness.
Bike shop: Absolute Bikes

CAMBA, Wisconsin
Fat tire elitists will fart in the general direction of any Midwestern mountain biking destination, but that just means they’re missing out on epic areas like the 300 miles of thigh-busting ups, and stomach-tossing downs maintained by the Chequamegon Area Mountain Bike Association, or CAMBA, among a million acres of forest in northern Wisconsin. The short-but-steep Mount Telemark is an absolute must-do.
Bike shop: New Moon Ski and Bike

Pisgah National Forest
Losing yourself in the hundreds of miles of mountain biking trails in the vast, million-acre Pisgah, which surrounds Asheville, North Carolina, is the fun part. Finding your way back to the car before dark is the challenge. There are three separate areas in the Pisgah, all of them world-class. Located 15 minutes from downtown, Bent Creek is the most popular, and gets crowded on weekends. Davidson Creek, also popular, is steep, rocky, and fringed by waterfalls. Mills River, about a half-hour to the southwest is bigger, tougher, more technical and quieter. The legendary Tsali Recreation area, located on the edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, is also nearby.
Bike shop: Youngblood Bicycles

Bike Maintenance Basic Bike Maintenance

Bike maintenance can be a wide-ranging topic, so let's get started with some of the basics first: cleaning your bike, securing bolts and lubricating key components.
Cleaning Your Bike
Your bike is a collection of moving parts. When these parts come into contact with mud, grime and debris, wear and tear is inevitable. This speeds up the deterioration of your bike's components. Not surprisingly, your first line of defense against breakdowns is proper bike hygiene.
How to Clean
There's more to cleaning your bicycle than just hosing it down from time to time and sticking it in your garage or basement to dry. Water (especially when coming from a high-pressure hose) can cause damage to sensitive bearing systems throughout your bike. So if you do wash with water, do so carefully.
Most dirty bike components can be cleaned by wiping them carefully with a dry (or damp) rag from time to time. Other components and part systems will require occasional brushing, buffing and relubrication to keep them in peak condition.
How Often to Clean
Base your bike cleaning schedule on how (and how often) you ride. In other words, if you spend a lot of time riding in wet, muddy conditions, or if you ride hard, fast and often, clean your bike more frequently.
Very few cyclists clean their bikes after every ride. But a regular schedule of frequent, simple cleaning (once a month, once a week or more depending upon the kinds of riding you're into) is important.
Basic Cleaning Supplies
The supplies you need to clean your bike depend upon the components you're cleaning and their condition. Here's a short list of basic items that address most cleaning tasks:
· Clean rags: You'll want a good supply of these on hand, both for grease, oil and wax-related tasks and for general cleaning and drying.
· Soap: For frame washing. Use something mild, like diluted dishwashing soap or preformulated bike wash cleaner.
· Water: Despite its potential dangers, water is still a useful cleaning tool. Make sure the water you use is clean.
· Brushes: Use a couple of different sizes and shapes to get into hard-to-reach places to remove the grime that rinsing alone can't get. Old toothbrushes work great for nooks and crannies.
· Solvents: You'll need some type of general solvent for cleaning up gummy parts like your bike chain. If possible, avoid traditional solvents such as kerosene and turpentine. Choose a solvent designed to be easy on the environment (and you!) instead. No matter what solvent you use, make sure you learn how to dispose of it properly.
Shop REI's selection of bike cleaners.
Securing Bike Bolts

Bicycles are held together by dozens of nuts, bolts and screws that can wear down or wriggle loose as the result of normal use. Maintaining a "tight ship" is important because loose (or improperly tightened) bike parts can:
· Cause poor performance
· Lead to serious wear and tear
· Become a safety hazard
Keep in mind that there's more to keeping bike bolts properly tensioned than simply cranking down on every nut and bolt in sight as hard as possible. Over-tightening can cause as much damage as under-tightening, and it can also lead to component failure and/or unsafe riding situations.
To make sure your bike is properly adjusted, perform frequent overall inspections so you can catch problems before they get serious. Also, keep your eyes and ears open for trouble (rattles, squeaks, wobbles) while you ride so you can check out the problems once you're back home.
The Pre-ride Inspection
The best defense against loose components is a thorough pre-ride inspection before every ride. Regular pre-ride inspections will help you catch potential problems before they develop into safety hazards. Most pre-ride inspection adjustments can be made with a simple bike multi-tool.
The Bike Shop Visit
The other important aspect of maintaining your bicycle is a regular bike shop visit. If you're a regular rider, bring your bike in for twice-yearly checkups to ensure that complex, hard-to-evaluate components such as spokes, bearing surfaces, derailleurs and cable systems are inspected and serviced regularly. Remember: There are certain parts of a bicycle that should always be serviced and adjusted by experienced mechanics.
Deciding What to Do
If you discover looseness or "play" in any bike component, you can either fix the problem yourself or bring your bicycle into a full-service bike shop for service. Choose the first option only if you're sure of both the cause of the problem and the exact steps necessary to fix it. Later sections of this clinic will identify those adjustments best left to mechanics.
Shop REI's selection of bike tools.
Lubricating Your Bike

Keeping your bike parts properly lubricated is crucial for good performance. Lubrication protects moving parts from excessive wear caused by friction, keeps them from "freezing up", and keeps rust and corrosion from attacking exposed metal components.
Be careful, though. Over-lubricating can lead to poor performance and component damage (excess lubricant will attract dirt and other abrasive particles). As a general rule, excess lube should always be carefully wiped away before the bicycle is ridden.
Tip: When lubricating a number of parts at once, remember the order in which you apply the lubricants. Wiping off excess lube in the same order will give the lubricants time to soak in.
Lubricant Options
· Bicycle greases: These should be used primarily for lubricating bearing systems (such as those found in hubs and headsets) and large-thread bolts. They tend to be thicker than oils. For example, use grease on the threads of pedal spindles before installation into crankarms
· Bicycle oils: These should be used to lubricate thin-thread bolts, chains and more actively moving parts in brake and derailleur systems. Bike oils tend to be thinner than bike greases.
When you lubricate your bike, be sure to use lubes that are suited to your weather and riding conditions. Rainy areas require more durable bike oils, while drier areas require lighter oils that won't pick up as much dirt. Also keep in mind that wet conditions typically require more frequent lubrications. Check with your local bike shop/mechanic for recommendations on specific lubes that match your riding conditions.
What Needs to Be Lubricated?
· The chain: Your chain is your bike's most "at risk" lubricated part. It should be lubed frequently to slow the rate of chain wear. Be sure to remove the chain from your bike from time to time (depending upon your riding style and conditions) to be thoroughly cleaned in a solvent and re-oiled. The more frequently you spot-lube your chain, the less necessary off-bike cleanings (and chain replacements) become. In general, lubricate your chain whenever it squeaks or appears "dry." Lubing after wet rides will help keep your chain from rusting. Keep in mind that the type of chain lube (wet, dry or a wax lube) affects how often you need to lubricate. Avoid over-lubricating.
· Brake and derailleur levers: These levers are crucial for braking and shifting. Apply a drop or two of oil to the lever pivots and the barrel adjusters from time to time to keep them functioning properly.
· Brake and derailleur cables: These cables connect your brake and the derailleur assemblies to the levers you use to control them. Check them frequently (especially in wet conditions) and re-lubricate occasionally so that they can effectively translate your commands to the component groups.
· Brake and derailleur assemblies: These assemblies are made up of a number of small moving parts. Be sure to keep an eye on their arms, wheels and pulleys so they don't bind up or become rigid. Apply lubricant to the pivot points of the assemblies.
· Bearing systems: The subject of maintenance and repair for hubs, headsets and cranksets is beyond the scope of this introductory maintenance clinic. Other Expert Advice articles will teach you how to identify bearing problems so that you can bring your bike in to an REI bike shop for service.

Fitting your bike Fitting Your Bike (from rei.com)
Cycling comfort and efficiency begin with a bike that fits right. This article, which includes video advice from REI Outdoor School instructors, explains the basics of bike fitting.
Road Bikes
The checklist for evaluating the fit of a road bike also applies to many urban, touring and commuting bikes. Note, however, that the aerodynamic riding position of road biking is not necessarily the most comfortable for extended bike touring or for heavily loaded bikes.
Check the frame's standover height. This ensures your chosen model is correctly sized for your leg length and flexibility.
· If you are at a store, select a bike, throw a leg over its top tube and straddle the tube.
· Customarily you want about 1" of clearance between your body and the top tube (if, that is, the bike is equipped with a traditional straight top tube, one that is parallel to the ground). When you lift the bike you should have approximately 1" of clearance between the ground and tire.
o The recommended amount of clearance is the same for men and women.
o Wear your cycling shoes when evaluating standover height, since the thickness of the soles will contribute to your overall leg length.
Stand-over height
· If the bike is equipped with a slightly sloping top tube (known as a semi-compact design) or a top tube with a more pronounced slope (a compact design), expect to have clearance of 2" or more.
· Later in this article we provide guidance for gauging this measurement outside of a store.
Adjust seat (saddle) height.
· Ask a friend to hold the bike upright while you hop on the saddle.
· Ideally, at the bottom of a pedal stroke you want to feel a slight bend in your knee. Aim to come within 80% or 90% of full extension, just not 100%.
· Use a wrench (or the quick-release lever, if equipped) to secure the seat at the ideal height. Note: If you are working with a carbon-fiber frame and/or seatpost, use a torque wrench to set the height to the manufacturer’s specification, or have a mechanic at a bike shop tighten this properly.
Adjust seat position. Your knee should be aligned over your forefoot for greatest efficiency.
· In addition to moving up and down, the seat can be moved forward or backward.
· Again, ask a friend to support the bike while you examine your body's position in the saddle.
· When in the correct position, a plumb line dropped from the bottom of your kneecap would lead to the ball of your foot. This means most riders will pedal with their shins angled just slightly forward.
· For most riders, the saddle should be parallel to the ground.
· Choose the right stem. This is to comfortably position your arms and torso.
Check the stem. Your stem length and angle determine how far you reach and bend at the waist to reach the handlebars. If you need to increase or decrease the stem length for a comfortable reach to the bars, you will most likely need to have a bike shop change out the stem to one that is the correct length and angle. A few road-bike stems have adjustable angles that allow you to raise the handlebars by changing the stem angle.
To gauge the fit of your stem:
· Ask a friend to support the bike while you're on the saddle.
· If you must extend and lock your arms to reach the handlebar, the stem is too long. Road vibrations will pulsate through locked arms into your neck and back, causing aches and fatigue.
· The goal: A riding position that results for a modest amount of shock-absorbing bend in your arms without forcing you to reach too far to apply the brakes. Tip: If it feels as though you could comfortably play piano keys on your handlebar, your arms are in a good position.
· This should place your back at a 45° angle, which puts your head in a comfortably forward-tilted position and keeps shifters and brake levers within easy reach.
· Note: Racers prefer more radical, aerodynamic body and arm positions to maximize speed.
Mountain Bikes
This process also works with some commuting and touring bikes, especially if any off-road riding is expected. As explained in our accompanying video:

First, check the frame's standover height.
· As with a road bike, if you are at a store you and can physically examine several bikes, choose a model, throw a leg over its top tube and straddle the tube.
· With shoes on, when you lift the bike you want 2" (minimum) clearance between the tire and the ground.
o The recommended amount of clearance is the same for men and women.
o If your bike has full suspension, you'll want less initial standover clearance (1"-2") because the bike sits higher than when you are actually sitting on the bike, which compresses the suspension.
· It is not unusual for aggressive riders to seek out 3" to 5" of clearance.
· Later in this article we offer tips for determining this measurement if you cannot visit a store.
Check the distance from the seat to the handlebar.
· The preferred position will allow you to ride comfortably with just a slight bend in your elbows as you grip the handlebar.
· The modest flex in your arm makes it easier to absorb any jolts caused by obstacles along your route.
Check the seat (saddle) height.
· When fitted correctly, your legs should bend just slightly at the bottom of a pedal stroke.
· If your feet can simultaneously touch the ground while in the seat, that's an indication your seat is too low.
· In general, bicycles designed for dirt jumping, freeriding or downhill mountain biking do not need seat-height adjustments.
Adjust seat position. Your knee should be aligned over your forefoot to pedal most efficiently. This step is not discussed in our video in fitting a mountain bike, but this guidance (also described in our road-bike section) is valuable advice that should be followed.
· In addition to moving up and down, the seat can be moved forward or backward.
· Again, ask a friend to support the bike while you examine your body's position in the saddle.
· When in the correct position, a plumb line dropped from the bottom of your kneecap would lead to the ball of your foot. This means most riders will pedal with their shins angled just slightly forward.
· For most riders, the saddle should be parallel to the ground.
Check the stem. This is to comfortably position your arms and torso. (As with point 4.
Your stem length and angle will determine how far you reach and bend at the waist to reach the handlebars. Some stems have adjustable angles that allow you to raise the handlebars by changing the stem angle. However, if your stem is not adjustable or you need to increase or decrease the stem length for a comfortable reach to the bars, you will need to have your bike shop change the stem to one that offers the correct length and angle.
To gauge the fit of your stem:
· Ask a friend to support the bike while you're on the saddle.
· If you must extend and lock your arms to reach the handlebar, the stem is too long. Trail vibrations will pulsate through locked arms into your neck and back, causing aches and fatigue.
· The goal: A riding position that results for a modest amount of shock-absorbing bend in your arms without forcing you to reach too far to apply the brakes. Tip: If it feels as though you could comfortably play piano keys on your handlebar, your arms are in a good position.
· This should place your back at a 45° angle, which puts your head in a comfortably forward-tilted position and keeps shifters and brake levers within easy reach.
· Note: Racers prefer more radical, aerodynamic body and arm positions to maximize speed.
Comfort/Recreational Bikes
A note about standover height.
· This is usually not a concern. Comfort bikes are often equipped with steeply sloping top tubes with clearance of 5" or more.
· Some bikes in this category are designed to allow the rider to put their feet flat on the ground when seated.
Adjust the seat (saddle) height.
· Position the seat so you can enjoy a comfortable, almost fully upright sitting position while accommodating a slight bend in your elbows as you grip the handlebar.
· As with all other bikes, the seat should be positioned so your legs never fully straighten during a downstroke. A little flex in your knee at the bottom of your pedaling motion is desirable.
· Most comfort bikes come with adjustable stem angles that allow you to raise or lower the handlebars. See the stem-adjustment instructions given above in the road and mountain bike sections.
Kids' Bikes
Check the standover height.
· Whatever top-tube style is employed, seek out 2" to 4" of clearance.
Adjust the seat height.
· Position the seat so your child can enjoy a comfortable, almost fully upright sitting position while accommodating a slight bend in their elbows as he or she grips the handlebar.
· Kids' bikes or adult bikes, the objective is the same: The seat should be positioned so legs never fully straighten during a downstroke. It's good to have a little flex in the knee at the bottom of your pedaling motion.
Talk to a Bike Fit Expert
Whatever style of bike appeals to you, ideally you can visit an REI store and consult with one of our bike mechanics to help you sort through the fit issues involved with a bike selection.
Online Bike Fitting
Happily, choosing the correct frame size can be achieved without a visit to a store.
REI includes a sizing chart with each bike we feature online. The chart includes the standover height for each frame size of that particular bike. The distance between your inseam and the standover height should fall within the ranges discussed in the sections above.
For example, if you have an inseam of 30", and you're buying a mountain, urban/commuting or touring bike, you will want a standover height between 25" and 28", depending on how aggressively you ride. For a road bike, your preferred standover height would be 28" or 29". For a comfort bike, the right standover height would be in the vicinity of 27" or 28".
To measure your inseam:
· Locate a large-format book (the coffee-table variety), tape measure and pencil.
· Stand against a wall.
· Shoes on.
· Wedge the book between your legs, with the book's spine parallel to the floor while against your crotch.
· With the pencil, lightly mark on the wall where the book's spine meets the wall (at your crotch).
· Measure from the mark to the floor. This is your inseam measurement.
Sizing Kids' Bikes
Children, especially girls, tend to have long legs and short torsos. When buying a bike for children, the most important factor is that the bike should not be too large. Do not choose an exaggerated standover height hoping your child will "grow into it." A too-large bike can become unwieldy in a child's hands and lead to a loss of control as well as confidence.
Other Adjustments
Saddles, handlebar tilt, some stem angles, flat bar shifters and brake levers can all be adjusted to create a more comfortable fit. To understand where you need to fine-tune your ride, do 2 things first:
· Experiment: As you ride your new bike, try different setups before you decide on one. Ride with your handlebar or seat a little higher but make small adjustments; ride the new setup long enough to allow your body to adjust to it.
· Take mental notes: Pay attention to any aches or pains that develop as you go. For example, a cramped back may be telling you to raise your handlebars slightly, while sore knees may be telling you that your saddle needs adjusting.
After getting acquainted with a new bike, REI encourages riders to make a return visit to a store for follow-up consultation on fit-related topics with a bike mechanic.
The following general guidance provides some self-evaluation/self-service suggestions.
Seat Position
Saddle position should align the knee over the forefoot/pedal spindle. Resist any inclination to adjust your saddle to achieve the proper reach to the handlebars.
Seatpost binder bolt
Seat height: When extended in a downstroke position, does each leg retain enough bend so that it falls just short of being fully straight? If so, your seat is properly positioned.
To move your saddle up or down, loosen the binder bolt (or quick-release lever, if equipped) located at the top of your seat tube. Slide the seatpost up or down in the seat tube as needed, being careful not to raise it beyond the "minimum insertion mark" etched into its side. Retighten the binder bolt or quick-release lever before riding.
Seat tilt: REI recommends starting with the saddle parallel to the ground to get a rider acquainted with this traditional setup. Some cyclists in time may prefer a forward tilt. Others might want a backward tilt. Yet a no-tilt alignment is often the best approach. To find a tilt position that suits you, experiment with different setups. To make saddle tilt adjustments, simply loosen the binder bolt at the top of your seatpost (directly underneath your saddle) and adjust as needed. Retighten the bolt before riding.
· Note: As mentioned earlier in this article, if you are working with a carbon-fiber frame and/or seatpost, use a torque wrench to properly secure the height to the manufacturer's specification, or have a mechanic at an REI bike shop take care of this.
Seat fore/aft position: In the ideal pedaling position on any style of bike, riders will pedal with their shins angled forward just slightly. A line could be drawn from the bottom of your kneecap to the ball of your foot. If your shin is too vertical, that line would be pointing at your heel. (Review our road-bike fit video for a demonstration.) To achieve the correct shin tilt, loosen the seatpost binder bolt and slide the saddle forward or backward as needed.
Seat style: Saddle technology has flourished in recent years. A wide variety of saddle widths and styles can be purchased your individual fit and comfort preferences.
Handlebar Position
Most bikes are now equipped with fixed-positioned stems. To adjust the position of your handlebar, you may have to choose a new stem, a different handlebar or both. Step risers and other components allow stem heights, angles and lengths (plus handlebar height and width) to be modified.

Fixing a Flat Tire How to Fix a Flat Tire
Flats, while frustrating, are easily dealt with. The causes are numerous, ranging from a leaky valve to the obvious, massive blowout. But no matter the reason, use this clinic to get prepared.
Step 1: Remove the Wheel
It's easier to fix a flat if you first remove the wheel from your bike. (Some racers do it without removing the wheel, but they're in a hurry.) Removing the wheel is a two-step process:
First, Release Your Brakes
Most brake assemblies sit very close to your wheel rims and use a quick-release system to disconnect and reconnect them easily. The exact location and design of these release systems will depend on the style of brakes you have.
· Some have a knob at the end of the pull-cable that catches on a notch in the caliper arm. Squeeze the brake arms together to release the cable.
· Others have a quick-release lever, just like on your axle, which can be opened to release the brakes.
· If your bike has disc brakes, be careful not to touch the rotor when opening the quick-release mechanism. The rotor is located very close to the quick-release lever and can become hot enough to burn you.
Then, Release Your Wheel
Once you've disengaged your brake assembly, your wheel is still held to the frame or fork (depending on if it's the rear or front wheel) by the wheel axle. To release the axle, check to see if you have a quick-release (lever) axle or a bolt-on (nut) axle and then follow the steps below.
Quick-Release Axles:
· Front Wheel
To remove a front wheel, simply open the quick-release lever to release the tension holding the wheel in place. Assuming your brakes are disengaged, your front wheel will probably drop straight out.
NOTE: Some bicycles have retention devices designed to hold a wheel in place even when its quick-release lever is open. If your wheel doesn't pop out after you open the quick-release lever, check the owner's manual that came with your bike for details on its particular release-and-retention system. Or consult with a bike pro at your local REI.
· Rear Wheel
Removing the rear wheel is almost as easy as removing the front wheel. Almost. The chain presents a small problem.
Before removing your rear wheel, shift your chain onto the smallest rear cog. To do so, adjust the shifter up then raise your bike and spin its wheels until the gear-shift is complete. Turn the bike upside down, then turn the rear axle quick-release lever until it's fully open. You may need to unscrew the nut slightly on the opposite side. Pull back on your rear derailleur to give yourself a little slack, then lift out the wheel with your other hand. The wheel should pop free without getting tangled in your chain. If your wheel stays put, it's likely there's a retention device holding it in place. (See "Note" above.)
Bolt-On Axles:
These work just like quick-release axles except that they must be loosened with a wrench instead of a lever, so it takes a bit longer.
To loosen a bolt-on axle, simply grab both ends of the axle with two good-fitting wrenches and turn both wrenches a couple of full turns. If you only have one wrench, alternate between ends of the axle bolt, loosening each a half turn or so at a time.
If you're removing a bolted rear wheel, follow the procedure described above to avoid getting it hung up in your chain.
Step 2: Check for Damage
It's important to find the origin of your flat tire. It may be a nail that is now long gone, leaving you with a hole in your tube and tire. Or it may be a thorn or piece of glass that is still stuck in the tire and could damage your newly repaired or replaced tube.
When searching for the cause of a flat, begin on the outside and work your way in.
· First, check the outer surface of the tire for any signs of damage or wear — things like foreign objects lodged in the tread, cuts or tears in the tread or tire sidewall, or worn/cracked tread patterns.
· Next, get inside the tire (see below) and check both the inner tube and the inside surface of the tire for similar damage.
Getting Inside Your Tire
Most bike tires are held inside the rims with a combination of physical grip and air pressure. The grip comes from the edge — or "bead" — of the tire interlocking with the edge of the rim. The pressure comes from the inflated tube pressing the tire against the rim.
First, release all of the remaining air from your flat tire by depressing the small plunger in the center of your tire valve (Presta valves must be opened first. To do so, remove the valve cap and turn the valve counterclockwise.) Next, unseat your tire bead using the following procedure:
· Attempt to unseat your tire by hand by pushing one bead edge in toward the center of the rim. If this doesn't work, use tire levers to get some additional leverage.
· When using tire levers, start on the section of your tire opposite the valve (to avoid damage to the valve stem). Use the longer end of one tire lever to pry the bead of the tire up and over the edge of the rim.
· If you can't unseat the tire with just one lever, place a second one in a similar manner, two or three spokes to either side of the first. (Tires levers come with a handy notch that can be secured against a spoke, keeping the lever in place.) Some tire manufacturers suggest sliding the second lever along the rim away from the first to unseat more of the tire. Others suggest using a third tire lever instead to avoid tire and/or rim damage.
Once a section of the tire bead is free, you should be able to unseat the rest of the bead with your fingers. Remove the inflatable tube from beneath the tire by pulling the valve stem out through the rim first. The rest of the tube slide out easily when pulled. Be careful when pulling the valve out through the rim, as its sharp edge could damage the valve.
Finding the Cause of Your Flat
Tube damage can be difficult to spot. If you don't see any obvious punctures or blowouts, try inflating the tube so you can check for escaping air. To find very small leaks, pass the tube close to your eye or submerge it in water and look for bubbles.
TIP: Leave the tire in its same location on the wheel so you can check for tire damage once the tube leak is discovered.
If you can't find any tube damage, check the valve. If the valve stem or base is cut, cracked or severely worn, it may be leaking. If so, the entire tube will need to be replaced.
If the valve is in good condition, check the thin strip along the inside of your rim. Look for protruding spoke ends or areas where the strip may have come free and pinched the tube against the rim surface.
Once the tube damage has been found, check your tire for damage as well. Use the valve stem to relocate the tube so you can the same location on the tire. Look for any embedded objects in the outside tread. Then turn the tire inside out and do a full visual inspection of the inner surface, making your way slowly around the tire. If you find any cuts, squeeze them to pull apart the rubber and look for anything embedded in the tire. Use a tweezer to remove any foreign debris.
Step 3: Repair/Replace the Tube
If your tire has sustained little or no permanent damage (as is often the case), your decision will be whether to repair your tube or replace it.
Repair— Repairing a bike tube can be easy, once you get the hang of it, and inexpensive as well. Most commercial patching kits contain everything you need to create an effective patch in the field, including step-by-step instructions. However, patching a tube should be considered an emergency repair. For maximum reliability and safety, replace a patched tube as soon as possible.
Replacement— This is the best, and in some situations the only, solution to a flat tire. You must replace your tube any time the damage is too extensive or severe to patch, or when a patch job fails to hold.
NOTE: Replacing tubes is almost always more expensive than patching them. However, the resulting tire/tube combination is usually stronger and longer lasting than a patch job. Bike shops do not, as a rule, patch tubes because the labor cost actually makes the patch more expensive than a new tube, and with a less durable result. To repair a bike tube, follow the instructions included in the tube repair kit that you use. Kits use different methods and materials, so read the entire instruction page before beginning.
Typical Patching Steps
· Find the damaged area.
· Clean and dry the damaged area.
· Rough up the surface of the damaged area with sandpaper (to help the glue set).
· Spread the glue (vulcanizing fluid) and allow it to set until tacky.
· Apply the tube patch and hold it in place with pressure.
· Apply talc to repaired area once the glue has bonded to make the tube easier to reinstall. Talc should also be applied to the inside of your tire.
Replacing a tube is simply a matter of using the right size. Size information is available on the tube itself, on the sidewall of your tire, or in your bike owner's manual.
Putting Your Tube and Tire Back On
· Make sure the rim strip is seated properly.
· Partially inflate your new or repaired tube to give it shape and ensure it holds air.
· Then place the tube inside the tire.
· Starting with the valve stem, place the tube and tire onto the wheel.
· Reseat one edge (or "bead") of the tire completely.
· Beginning close to the valve, reseat the other tire bead inside the rim. Check that the valve stem is straight and not at an angle.
· Proceed around the wheel (in both directions at the same time), reseating more of the tire bead. This will get harder as you go.
· Pinch both sides of the tire in towards the center of the rim to make things easier, or carefully use a tire lever to complete the job.
· Once the tire and valve are in place, check along its edges to make sure that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tire bead. This could cause another flat.
Now inflate your tire slowly, checking both sides of the rim to make sure that the tire bead stays firmly seated. Double-check the valve as you go to ensure it remains straight. To make sure your tube doesn't get caught between your tire and the rim, go around the whole tire once and pinch both sides of the tire inward.
Inflate the tire to its recommended pressure (printed on the tire itself or in your owner's manual). If you don't have a gauge, use your thumb as a guide. If your thumb presses in easily, keep pumping.
Step 4: Reinstall the Wheel
Simply reverse the procedure you used to remove it. Reattach the wheel to your frame dropouts, holding the derailleur out of the way if you're reinstalling the rear wheel.
If a bolt-on axle holds the wheel in place, you must tighten it securely. If a quick-release mechanism is involved:
· Make sure the quick-release lever is open before reinstalling the tire in the frame dropouts.
· Make sure that the wheel is installed evenly, centered in the dropouts.
· Turn the quick-release lever to the fully open position, then turn the adjusting nut on the opposite side of the axle clockwise until it resists turning (don't use a tool to tighten this nut).
· Close the quick-release lever. Resistance should begin when the lever is sticking out perpendicular to the bicycle frame, then build until it is fully closed and pointing towards the rear of the bike.
Finally, flip the bike right side-up. Be sure to reattach your brakes before riding!
Be Prepared
Carry a Spare Tube— It's always wise to carry an extra tube. Just make sure you have the right size. Your tube size is indicated on the sidewall of your tires and in your owner's manual. Also note whether it uses a Schraeder or Presta valve.
Carry a Patch Kit— This is a compact and economical alternative to a new tube. The downsides? They are more hassle and offer a somewhat less durable solution.
Carry Tire Levers— These easily fit into even a small underseat bike bag.
Carry a Pump— Some flats can be avoided by simply riding on tires that are properly inflated. Check your air pressure before every ride.
Contributors: Karl Schumacher, Novara bike tech rep; Shawn Pedersen, REI Seattle master bike tech